Rocca di Angera

A quarter of an hour's drive away, the Rocca di Angera commands the Lombard shore of Lake Maggiore from a spur of rock. It's a medieval fortress of the Borromeo family, with frescoed halls, a great courtyard, and a view that reaches the Alps.

Inside there's a surprise that children love: the Museum of Dolls and Toys, with rooms full of pieces from across Europe. Outside, the medieval garden is the right place for a pause in the shade.

The Rocca is open seasonally, roughly from spring to autumn, so in winter it's worth checking before you set off.